I have been posting progress pictures over on my Instagram and just realized I hadn’t posted anything here in a while! I’ve made great progress on Ruby’s wardrobe. I won’t say we are on the homestretch, but the only thing left to make is her bodice, so we are almost there!

The last post I made was about her completed undergarments and since then I have completed the skirt and drape for her dress. In the 1880s, women’s dresses sometimes had asymmetrical features, like drapes that were pointed on one side, lapels only on one side of the bodice, things like that.

As an aside, funny how 100 years later in the 1980s, I myself wore asymmetrical styles – I had a wide leather belt that was wide on one side and the skinny end overlapped at the waist. And we can’t forget the bib front shirts that were meant to be worn half unbuttoned. Anyway, that’s a funny thing about fashion – everything old is new again.

Here is the front of the lovely silk taffeta skirt. I really agonized before making this because the side panels are curved and I was really concerned the stripes would go awry on the side and back.

I was worried over nothing! The two large pleats on the side back take up much of the curved edge and in a way, correct the direction of the stripes.

The bustled look is accomplished by adding a set of tapes across the back of the skirt and then drawing up the tapes and tying them into place. I do know this method was used on original dresses back in the day. Here you can see the bias strip of batiste and the tape before it’s been cut in the center. The bias is stitched through both the lining and the outer fabric but for much of the rest of the skirt stitches are placed only through the lining for a very clean look.

Here’s the back of the skirt with the tapes drawn and tied. This silk taffeta is so luscious to work with. I wish all fabrics were as nice!

The next layer is the drape, and of course Susan Sirkus patterns are fiddly at best! I ended up writing out the instructions separately because much was missing from the method. At no point do the instructions tell you to hem the edges – one of my big complaints about her patterns.

But whatever, I know how to sew and what needs to happen to bring a garment together thankfully, but over and over I realize the Wish Booklets are just not for beginner sewers.

I used a softer silk for the drape that is just the color of the blue stripes in the taffeta and it coordinates perfectly. And because the Victorian era was one of embellishment, I decided some kind of design should be added to the drape. At first I thought maybe trim around the lower edge, but instead decided on an embroidered motif.

I found this design in the book A French Fashion Doll’s Wardrobe. It’s one continuous line.

Based on the image in the Wish Booklet, this part of the drape should lay across the side front, but it doesn’t. I just can’t get it to stay there. I know I followed all the instructions and was very careful in the construction, but this drape just sits high on the bustled skirt underneath.

I also have issues with where the pleats on the front fall. It’s one of those things – the drawing just doesn’t match the reality. Is this a problem? No. Does it bother me? A little.

And also based on the drawing, this back portion should cover the bustle instead of whatever it’s doing here.

But overall I still quite like the drape and how it works with the skirt. Could I redo it – yes of course and I could make changes based on my experiences. Is it worth it – no, it probably isn’t. This is a dress for a doll, not a live person.

I used these lovely cloisonné buttons I have had forever that just so happen to be perfect for this dress!

So pretty!

This long weekend in the USA was great for making progress on Ruby’s wardrobe. I finished her petticoat and cushion bustle, and also decided to make a corset cover. All turned out quite nicely. First up was the petticoat.

Ok this is what it is supposed to look like. The gathered back is created by adding adjustable tapes on the inside of the garment.

That’s one side of the back. Unfortunately after I stitched that side, I made the other side incorrectly and the tape was on the outside. It was the end of the day and I knew better so I set it aside for the next sewing day.

After fixing that, I realized a minor detail – I had sewn the bias strip all the way to the edge of the piece, but really should have stopped 1/4” from the edge for a seam allowance. Le sigh, I had to pull a couple stitches but that really was a minor error. Yes, I could blame the vague instructions but honestly, I know better.

The front was supposed to have a pleated trim but I chose to do a ruffle because I hate making small scale pleats. That’s just me.

You may notice that on the drawing above, the back gathering from the tapes is well above the ruffled trim, but in reality that’s only about an inch from the lower edge! I suppose the intent was to add the ruffles and pleats to the hem – an extension of the length. With the yoke and waistband the petticoat is long enough and it wouldn’t make sense to add on this length so I applied it on top of the skirt as I have seen on historical garments. I used a gathered lace for the back and I like the outcome.

I made the closure with a mother of pearl button.

How do you think that compares to the drawing? Pretty close I’d say.

After finishing the petticoat I made the cushion bustle. This item is basically a lightly padded rectangle, folded onto itself and secured on a waistband. The pattern is plain so I chose to add the lace on the edges – because really, the Victorian age was a really embellished era. Why not add lace to your bustle?

The bustle helps achieve the large “backside” shape that was so desirable in the 1880s. There were many styles available and this is one example.

After thinking forward to the beginnings of the dress, I realized the next item necessary would be a corset cover. Because the corset is a darker color and the blouse layer would be fine white, there is a chance the corset would show through. The Wish Booklet includes a pattern for what they call a petticoat bodice. I haven’t heard this exact term but I recognize the piece as a corset cover.

The actual pattern was too long so I shortened it. I rather like the embroidery and the pearl buttons.

So there you have it. The undergarments for Ruby are completed and I can begin thinking about her dress finally!

Check out my instagram where you can see a video of everything. @norkio