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More undergarments

Posted in Crafts, Dolls, Martha Tudor, Sewing by

I kept working on Martha Tudor the last couple weeks and completed two more items. First up was a set of stays.

18th century stays

I used the Susan Sirkis WB14 stays pattern, upscaled it, adjusted it to fit, redrafted the adjusted pieces and then went to work.

I chose to make it in two layers as I find the garments just fit more authentically with enough fabric in them. So I cut all the pieces, transferred the marks and then assembled an inner and an outer layer.

Partially completed stays

The pieces are sewn from the top edge to the waist marking. This allows for the creation of the tabs which were seen on 18th century stays. All seams are pressed toward the back. I found turning to be fiddley mostly in the tabs. I think making these stays in their original size (approximately Barbie doll size) would really be a big pain.

Final steps

I used this white cotton Petersham to bind the top edge and also stitched down all the seams. I also stitched in mock boning channels on the center front panel. I was able to use my machine for some of this work which saved so much time and gave a really clean finish. The final steps were then to stitch the eyelets and the shoulder straps.

A blood sacrifice

I quite like making eyelets for some reason. It’s a sort of zen process to me. But this one got me and I left some of my blood in the stays. That surely portends the rest of the clothes will come together easily, right?

Back lacing

Here you can see I laced the stays from bottom to top which was apparently how they were done in this era. I’ve seen multiple videos and photos of people lacing their stays this way.

Padded panniers

Here are the padded panniers I made. They are basically a figure 8 shape, then folded over the waistband and stitched together. They kind of look like saddlebags to me. The panniers are lightly stuffed with cotton to give them body, but not so firmly they won’t give a little under the weight of the skirt.

So that’s the completed undergarments! I’ve been working on the skirt – it was called the petticoat in this era but didn’t hide underneath the main skirt, it was the main skirt. Interesting how terminology evolved. Stay tuned for that garment coming up next.

Martha Tudor Part 2

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I completed the very first piece of her wardrobe: a basic linen shift.

My intention with Martha is to dress her in a 1750s style. Probably I will make a robe à la francaise. This is the type of dress with a wide skirt to the sides.

Met Museum

Now, since she is from the Colonies, she isn’t going to have the exaggerated width of a court gown.

British Court Gown – Met Museum

I’ll be making some small pannier pads to hold out the sides. The robe à la francaise is characterized by Watteaux pleats on the back of the gown. These back pleats were in fashion off and on through the 19th century!

Watteaux pleats

I do have lovely fabrics selected for this project. I do not have patterns. I’ll be drafting and/or upscaling pieces from a variety of sources. The shift I made, for instance is based on a 19th century style nightgown with some changes and I drafted the sleeve.

And since Martha is another 20” doll, I’m going to try using my sewing machine for parts of the clothing. Of course no setting in sleeves, they are just too small for my sanity, but much of the rest of the garments can be machine sewn. That should save my eye sight a little bit.

Stay tuned for future updates!

A few completions

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Since finishing Julia I took a short break from china dolls so I could work on Christmas. First up is Inez. In September 2024 I started this dress. Thankfully Inez is incredibly patient!

Happy Christmas!

I love the bias plaid. The bodice is a gathered front bodice with long slim sleeves and a small tuck at the cuff. I had completed most of the bodice back in 2024 and then set this project aside for others. While out shopping with my sister I found this lovely grosgrain ribbon to adorn the skirt, but it still needed something. I then found this perfect red trim. I love the festive colors all together. I actually have two additional holiday dress cuts so maybe by 2030 Emalie and Mernie will have Christmas dresses, too.

Next, for a Christmas gift, I have been planing this cute bathing costume for my sister’s doll, Dottie.

Let’s go to the beach, beach

Emalie of course is the model because it’s a gift. Many years ago, my sister and I and another friend made ourselves Victorian bathing costumes. My sister’s was this color scheme and I thought it would be so cute for her and Dottie to match.

I used the Elizabeth Stewart Clark patterns as a base, but made the standard back opening bodice into a front opening. Then, I used the drawers pattern, cut short, and joined the top and bottom with a waistband.

Union suit

It’s kind of like combination underwear. I gathered the sleeves and legs, then added the red ribbon trims. The buttons aren’t functional, it closes with hooks and eyes.

Finally, I made a sweet little skirt, not as full as the standard dress pattern calls for. This is gathered to the waistband, then the skirt buttons to the center front of the bathing costume and has a center back closure.

Ready to take a dip

I’m really pleased with this gift and I hope Dottie likes it too.

Finally, one funny little thing for me! With my hand sewing, I felt that I would like a pin cushion to keep handy. On eBay I was seeing half dolls made into pin cushions, then one day I saw these legs. I thought this was just hilarious and I knew exactly what I wanted to do!

Leggy Linda

I pictured her with frilly skirts all around, but in all honesty that would not be very practical for a pin cushion. She does have a purple silk skirt and a batiste petticoat, and that’s probably just fine. The pin cushion itself is a cotton base with emery inside.

Whoopsie!

I say that Leggy Linda the Lush had a bit too much eggnog and fell into a snowbank. Her legs are about 1.75” btw, she’s tiny.

That’s the latest for now. I am working on drafting patterns for Martha Tudor after finding a perfect 18th century inspired fabric. Stay tuned for that project coming soon!

Martha Tudor – Part 1

Posted in Crafts, Dolls, Martha Tudor, Pictures, Sewing by

As a fan of Tasha Tudor dolls I regularly check eBay for new items listed. The most common dolls are Meg, Emma, Sally and Nell. Less common but still occasional are Molly and Dora. I have seen Amy, Julia, Lady Patricia, Trudy and Martha only once. When I see these uncommon dolls listed I usually put on a really high maximum bid because I don’t want to lose them.

While I was finishing Julia, I saw an auction for Martha, placed my stupidly high bid and waited for the auction to close. I hate auctions lol. Anyway, I won her and waited with great excitement to receive her because I have only heard of her from a site visitor – never seen before the auction.

The box arrived. Crushed.

Martha had a visit to the French Revolution via USPS or UPS or however she was shipped.

The seller has refunded me.

I lamented this happening to my family and my daughter suggested trying to glue her back together. Could I do that?

I found a number of articles online about fixing a broken chest plate on a doll. A couple referred to this porcelain and ceramic glue.

It comes with some very fine tube tips for highly precise glue application. I felt a bit like one of those artisans at a museum putting together shards of pottery. Ok not really. I actually was thinking of all the moms and dads through the years gluing dolls and cookie jars after the kids got too rambunctious.

Fortunately Martha’s head is intact! I carefully removed the pieces from the body, then tried to figure out how the parts would fit together. A bit of glue on the broken edges, then pressing them together for 30 seconds created the basic bond. This glue needs to cure up to 24 hours.

I’m not thrilled with one seam. I didn’t want to force the porcelain into place and the seam is off just a smidge.

I applied glue to the cracks inside and outside as well. There are a couple of holes where bits of the porcelain has been lost.

When it comes time to reunite her head with her body I may use glue instead of sewing tapes because I don’t want to put too much stress on the china. I am also considering strapping over her shoulders. I had to do that with Julia as her chest plate had cracked between the hole and the edge. There may be a few other alterations in her future as well – painting on gold shoe buckles, stitching in elbows and knees, little things like that.

Needless to say, Martha will have a high necked dress. I will also be trying to style her in Colonial attire. That’s an era I know nothing about clothing wise, so this one will really be a learning experience for me!

I was going to dress Lady Patricia next, but I think she’s going to have to wait a bit longer!

I also need to do something about her linebacker shoulders haha.

Progress on Julia – corset cover and skirt

Posted in Crafts, Dolls, Misc, Mom, Pictures, Sewing by

I haven’t made as much progress as I’d like on Julia’s wedding gown, but I did complete a couple things.

First I made a little batiste corset cover because I just know the gold silk corset could potentially show through the bodice and I don’t want that. It was a little difficult to fit to her, but right now I can’t remember why. I used French lace and mother of pearl buttons – and of course hand sewn button holes. While this pattern came from the Louise Hedrick book, it is very similar to one I made from Le Mode Illustree from 1872 or 1879.

Next I completed the skirt. I actually made a test skirt in plain cotton and that is acting as an additional petticoat. The silk satin is luscious. The skirt is fully lined. I used bias strips to create the hem and the facing is just stitched to the lining.

I had this gorgeous lightweight pink silk satin ribbon and used it to create the ruched trim by running a gathering stitch on either side about 1/8” from the edge. The sweep of the skirt hem is about 36” so I used 90” of the pink to make the trim.

Next up I am working on the undersleeves. During this era, sleeves were still a separate item that was tied on around the bicep. I’m making some organdy sleeves with gorgeous French lace at the cuff edge.

After that I will make the bodice and finally a veil. But just because I have ADHD, I made a bouquet for her to hold. It is bound in a rose colored silk ribbon and I left tails long enough to tie it to her hand.

The flowers are paper and I can’t remember now where I bought them but there was a sale so I bought all the colors. :-)

Stay tuned for more progress soon. I really want to finish the glorious wedding ensemble – of course that will necessitate rearranging my display cabinet and that can always be fun too!

Foundation garments

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Busy, busy fingers. I have been working diligently on Julia’s foundation garments. In my last post I shared the completed chemise, drawers and corset. Today I will share the next items.

First up, I completed the empire hoop. This is the second time I’ve made this particular item and I’m less than delighted with both of them.

Side view
Back view

I feel like the hoop is meant to support a smaller skirt than Julia will likely be wearing. We shall see. The first time I made the empire hoop, I discovered the instructions didn’t tell you to hem it! Obviously I remembered that this time and added a sweet gathered lace.

I don’t love how the back just seems to collapse instead of standing out, but maybe I’m picturing the wrong thing. A grand bustle hoop would stand far out and that’s not the silhouette I’m going for here.

To compensate for the uninspired shape, I’m making a small crescent shaped cushion bustle. More like a bum roll. I saw this on a vintage recreation of an elliptical hoop and I think it’s going to provide the shape and lift/support I’m looking for here.

Vintage buttons

I do love these buttons. They are vintage glass buttons and yes, I did handsew the button holes.

I’ve considered making a different elliptical hoop based on original garments, but what a massive amount of work that will be. Talk me off the ledge!

Bummer

Later…

I’ve made the crescent shaped bum pad and I don’t love it, either! It’s possibly too full and stands out too straight of an angle from her body.

Bumper pad

If I try to flatten it down it has a better profile, but even that isn’t realistic to maintain. I also tried putting it under the empire hoop but that just threw off the way that garment hung and fit, so that was a no-go. This is just going to be set aside for the time being.

I had made the bum pad while waiting for some laces to be delivered for the petticoat.

Lacy petticoat

Here you can see the petticoat, which I do rather like. It is about 1.5” shorter than the hoop and I don’t think that is correct even though it exactly matches the measurements in the book. Le sigh.

I’m just going to focus on what I like. I like the tucks. I like the lace insertion. I like the ruffled hem.

Pretty petti, ugly hoop

At the center back are two itsy worked eyelets for the drawstring. I’m rather good at eyelets. I really should be great at buttonholes because they are just elongated eyelets, right?

The drawstring waist allows me to draw more of the fabric to the back of Julia’s body. This is perfect for the 1872 profile I am hoping to accomplish here.

Part of Julia’s issue is that she is sort of potato shaped through the body. I can’t make much of a waist on her, even with the corset. It’s not a big deal because she is a doll afterall. I just want her to be a beautiful bride once finished with the project!

Bride To Be, Julia

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I started working on the new garments for Julia Tudor, who will be getting married in 1872. Based on the lovely drawing in the 1872 La Mode Illustree, she will be wearing an ivory silk satin with blush silk trimming, French lace undersleeves, and a bobinet veil.

Of course before she can don her bridal finery, she must have the appropriate undergarments. I have completed the following so far.

A fine batiste chemise with delicate lace on the neck and arm openings.

Delicate batiste drawers featuring tucks, hem lace and white embroidery in a tulip stitch.

Please ignore the messy work table!

A gold silk taffeta corset, boned and fully lined, featuring orange blossoms embroidered on the front.

Orange blossoms for good fortune
Back view showing lacing

Still to be finished are a practical corset cover of crisp cotton, a luscious petticoat featuring tucks, insertion and also lace at the hem, and an empire hoop of cotton/linen blend. I will share more as they come!

2025 Project Goals

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I have a number of things I want to work on this year now Ruby is completed.

Julia Tudor

This doll is about 20” tall and will make a lovely bride. She has a tiara on her head and I am trying to figure out how to make a veil stay in place. My vision is an 1872 wedding dress in ivory and blush pink. Or it could be blush pink with ivory, I haven’t finalized that yet. I’m drafting the pattern from the 1872 La Mode Illustree’ and so far there is only one confusing bit.

Preparing for her upcoming matrimony

Amelia

I’d like to make an 1850s styled doll and give her a Bloomer Suit. This fashion was popularized by Amelia Bloomer, hence the name. I’m undecided if I will use a china headed doll or make a cloth lady doll for this. 1850s heads are rare and expensive. If I decide to make a cloth lady doll, I will try a Susan Sirkis method for attaching hair.

Could be interesting!

Amy Tudor

It’s a stretch goal for me but I would like to make this pretty bonnet head doll. I only have the head so I’ll need to decide if I will purchase china arms and legs or make fabric ones. Bonnet head dolls are based on 1840s styles even though they were produced around 1910 apparently. I’d like to dip into this time period though as I know nothing about it.

I’d like hands and feet, please

Minerva

This beautiful doll doesn’t need much but a repair to her broken foot. I had an idea that I could make boots and stockings, fill them with emery or something similar, then fit them to the broken china on her foot, pull up the stockings to hide the transition. We shall see. I got this idea from Ruby actually since she has her own boots and stockings.

My foot hurts!

Charlotte

I just acquired a 3” tall frozen Charlotte doll. Of course she’s nude. Clothing her will be a challenge due to her itty bitty size so that could be a fun little project. I have some ideas based on other frozen Charlottes with clothing I have seen.

Brr it’s so cold I’m frozen!

So there you have it – my ambitious goals for the year. Of course I’ll be posting here with my progress. And no, I haven’t forgotten the various other dolls I have to work on, they just might need to wait until 2026 lol.

Did you know I have an Instagram where I post lots of interim photos of my work? Look for me under norkio and follow for progress shots and other fun stuff.

Embroidered Silk Handbag

Posted in Crafts, Dolls, Ruby, Sewing by

A proper Victorian lady doll must have a handbag for the various items she’d like to carry with her when visiting friends. Perhaps calling cards, a pencil, a coin and a house key might be needed during her day. I wanted to make Ruby a little handbag and devised this pretty one. You can make one too, just follow these easy instructions.

To make this embroidered silk handbag you will need:

Silk outer fabric

Cotton lining fabric

Silk thread

Sewing needle

Scissors

Pins

Embroidery floss

Embroidery needle

Tissue paper

Pencil

Begin by cutting one silk and one cotton piece 2 inches wide by 5 1/2” long. On one short end, make a point that is stepped back 1/2” from the end.

Forgot to take a before picture!

Trace the embroidery pattern you like onto tissue paper. I went with this continuous line art found in A French Fashion Doll’s Wardrobe.

Pin that where you want your embroidery to be. Make sure to leave space for 1/8” seams on all three sides of this flap. Using 2 strands of your floss, stitch directly through the tissue paper and follow the pattern.

I chose to do this in a backstitch but you may like a split stitch or a standard embroidery stitch. Let your creativity decide. When you have to end your stitching be careful not to catch any of the silk in your anchor stitches.

Once you have completed your embroidery, tear away the tissue paper. Make sure to pick out any caught in a stitch or under a thread. I used the blunt end of a crewel needle to do this but you could also use craft tweezers.

Fold right sides together so you make a 2” square pouch, and then stitch down the sides. Repeat with the lining.

Pin the lining and silk right sides together on the flap and stitch around the flap only. Turn your work and push out the corners. If you like you can lightly iron the flap to roll the lining to the inside.

Set this aside for a moment to make your handle. This tutorial includes a braided embroidery floss handle but you could use ribbon, cord, chain, really whatever you might like as long as it isn’t too heavy.

Measure out 24” of embroidery floss, then section that into three 8” strands. Knot one end, then tape it to your work surface. Braid the floss until you have 4 or 5” of braid. Knot the end and clip off the tail.

Open the silk pouch and tuck the lining inside. Make sure the corners go all the way inside.

Next tuck one end of your handle in between the silk and the lining at the flap fold. Pin that in place.

You will need to tuck under the silk and the lining so all raw edges are inside the seam. Carefully stitch a blind stitch, making at least two stitches through the handle. When you reach the other side, tuck the other handle end in and stitch through it.

All the raw edges should be inside, the handle should be nicely secured. Finger press the flap closed so the embroidered side looks pretty. If you like you can add a hook & eye or snap. Depending on the embroidery you select you could make a buttonhole and add a decorative button.

Very pretty!

Making a Feathered Victorian Fan for a Doll

Posted in Crafts, Dolls, Pictures, Ruby by

As I’m wrapping up final bits and pieces for Ruby, I’m making some accessories for her. Every Victorian lady had a fan or three, so today I made a fixed type of fan – as opposed to a folding fan that looks like a half circle when open.

This two sided fan with feathers was delightful and easy to make.

You will need:

An index card

Some fancy scrapbook paper

A toothpick

Some feathers

A pencil

A spool of thread

Scissors

Craft glue – not a glue stick

Start by tracing your spool of thread on the index card to make two circles. Cut those out.

On your scrapbook paper, try to find a pretty motif that you want to be centered on the outside of your fan. Trace the spool of thread so those motifs are centered, and then draw a 1/4” margin around that circle. Cut out on the larger circle. The index card circle will fit in the inner circle. Using a bit of glue, glue that in place.

Carefully clip around the circle to make tabs in the scrapbook paper. This will allow you to fold it over the index card.

Put some glue right at the edge of the index card circle and then fold the tabs down, pressing them into the glue. Set that aside for a moment.

From your feathers, find 3-4 that you like. I chose these really fluffy feathers, but you could use some that have a design on them, really just choose the ones you like best. Lay them onto one circle in a pleasing arrangement. Clip the hard ends if necessary.

Take the toothpick and cut off one pointed end – maybe 3/8” up the shaft. This will be the handle of your fan. Put a glob of glue on top of the feathers, and then lay the pointed end of the handle in the glue – making sure it comes out opposite the feathers. In my case, one of my motifs has a stem so I wanted the handle to come out right at that spot.

Lay the other circle on top of the feathers and press the two sides together firmly. If any glue squeezes out wipe it away with a paper towel.

Allow the glue to dry. You can tie a 1/8” satin ribbon around the handle and then tie that to the hand of your doll if you want to display it. This fan took about 10-15 minutes to make.

I hope you will try this little project and if you do please share in the comments. You can try other shapes for the index cards as well. Let your imagination soar.