There isn’t really much to say about this except that I am tremendously pleased with the results! Please enjoy the grand reveal of Ruby’s wardrobe and body remake. She is currently packed up and ready to be shipped to her owner, my cousin M.
Click here to see all the posts about Ruby and read about her restoration.
A proper Victorian lady doll must have a handbag for the various items she’d like to carry with her when visiting friends. Perhaps calling cards, a pencil, a coin and a house key might be needed during her day. I wanted to make Ruby a little handbag and devised this pretty one. You can make one too, just follow these easy instructions.
To make this embroidered silk handbag you will need:
Silk outer fabric
Cotton lining fabric
Silk thread
Sewing needle
Scissors
Pins
Embroidery floss
Embroidery needle
Tissue paper
Pencil
Begin by cutting one silk and one cotton piece 2 inches wide by 5 1/2” long. On one short end, make a point that is stepped back 1/2” from the end.
Trace the embroidery pattern you like onto tissue paper. I went with this continuous line art found in A French Fashion Doll’s Wardrobe.
Pin that where you want your embroidery to be. Make sure to leave space for 1/8” seams on all three sides of this flap. Using 2 strands of your floss, stitch directly through the tissue paper and follow the pattern.
I chose to do this in a backstitch but you may like a split stitch or a standard embroidery stitch. Let your creativity decide. When you have to end your stitching be careful not to catch any of the silk in your anchor stitches.
Once you have completed your embroidery, tear away the tissue paper. Make sure to pick out any caught in a stitch or under a thread. I used the blunt end of a crewel needle to do this but you could also use craft tweezers.
Fold right sides together so you make a 2” square pouch, and then stitch down the sides. Repeat with the lining.
Pin the lining and silk right sides together on the flap and stitch around the flap only. Turn your work and push out the corners. If you like you can lightly iron the flap to roll the lining to the inside.
Set this aside for a moment to make your handle. This tutorial includes a braided embroidery floss handle but you could use ribbon, cord, chain, really whatever you might like as long as it isn’t too heavy.
Measure out 24” of embroidery floss, then section that into three 8” strands. Knot one end, then tape it to your work surface. Braid the floss until you have 4 or 5” of braid. Knot the end and clip off the tail.
Open the silk pouch and tuck the lining inside. Make sure the corners go all the way inside.
Next tuck one end of your handle in between the silk and the lining at the flap fold. Pin that in place.
You will need to tuck under the silk and the lining so all raw edges are inside the seam. Carefully stitch a blind stitch, making at least two stitches through the handle. When you reach the other side, tuck the other handle end in and stitch through it.
All the raw edges should be inside, the handle should be nicely secured. Finger press the flap closed so the embroidered side looks pretty. If you like you can add a hook & eye or snap. Depending on the embroidery you select you could make a buttonhole and add a decorative button.
As I’m wrapping up final bits and pieces for Ruby, I’m making some accessories for her. Every Victorian lady had a fan or three, so today I made a fixed type of fan – as opposed to a folding fan that looks like a half circle when open.
This two sided fan with feathers was delightful and easy to make.
You will need:
An index card
Some fancy scrapbook paper
A toothpick
Some feathers
A pencil
A spool of thread
Scissors
Craft glue – not a glue stick
Start by tracing your spool of thread on the index card to make two circles. Cut those out.
On your scrapbook paper, try to find a pretty motif that you want to be centered on the outside of your fan. Trace the spool of thread so those motifs are centered, and then draw a 1/4” margin around that circle. Cut out on the larger circle. The index card circle will fit in the inner circle. Using a bit of glue, glue that in place.
Carefully clip around the circle to make tabs in the scrapbook paper. This will allow you to fold it over the index card.
Put some glue right at the edge of the index card circle and then fold the tabs down, pressing them into the glue. Set that aside for a moment.
From your feathers, find 3-4 that you like. I chose these really fluffy feathers, but you could use some that have a design on them, really just choose the ones you like best. Lay them onto one circle in a pleasing arrangement. Clip the hard ends if necessary.
Take the toothpick and cut off one pointed end – maybe 3/8” up the shaft. This will be the handle of your fan. Put a glob of glue on top of the feathers, and then lay the pointed end of the handle in the glue – making sure it comes out opposite the feathers. In my case, one of my motifs has a stem so I wanted the handle to come out right at that spot.
Lay the other circle on top of the feathers and press the two sides together firmly. If any glue squeezes out wipe it away with a paper towel.
Allow the glue to dry. You can tie a 1/8” satin ribbon around the handle and then tie that to the hand of your doll if you want to display it. This fan took about 10-15 minutes to make.
I hope you will try this little project and if you do please share in the comments. You can try other shapes for the index cards as well. Let your imagination soar.
I have been posting progress pictures over on my Instagram and just realized I hadn’t posted anything here in a while! I’ve made great progress on Ruby’s wardrobe. I won’t say we are on the homestretch, but the only thing left to make is her bodice, so we are almost there!
The last post I made was about her completed undergarments and since then I have completed the skirt and drape for her dress. In the 1880s, women’s dresses sometimes had asymmetrical features, like drapes that were pointed on one side, lapels only on one side of the bodice, things like that.
As an aside, funny how 100 years later in the 1980s, I myself wore asymmetrical styles – I had a wide leather belt that was wide on one side and the skinny end overlapped at the waist. And we can’t forget the bib front shirts that were meant to be worn half unbuttoned. Anyway, that’s a funny thing about fashion – everything old is new again.
Here is the front of the lovely silk taffeta skirt. I really agonized before making this because the side panels are curved and I was really concerned the stripes would go awry on the side and back.
I was worried over nothing! The two large pleats on the side back take up much of the curved edge and in a way, correct the direction of the stripes.
The bustled look is accomplished by adding a set of tapes across the back of the skirt and then drawing up the tapes and tying them into place. I do know this method was used on original dresses back in the day. Here you can see the bias strip of batiste and the tape before it’s been cut in the center. The bias is stitched through both the lining and the outer fabric but for much of the rest of the skirt stitches are placed only through the lining for a very clean look.
Here’s the back of the skirt with the tapes drawn and tied. This silk taffeta is so luscious to work with. I wish all fabrics were as nice!
The next layer is the drape, and of course Susan Sirkus patterns are fiddly at best! I ended up writing out the instructions separately because much was missing from the method. At no point do the instructions tell you to hem the edges – one of my big complaints about her patterns.
But whatever, I know how to sew and what needs to happen to bring a garment together thankfully, but over and over I realize the Wish Booklets are just not for beginner sewers.
I used a softer silk for the drape that is just the color of the blue stripes in the taffeta and it coordinates perfectly. And because the Victorian era was one of embellishment, I decided some kind of design should be added to the drape. At first I thought maybe trim around the lower edge, but instead decided on an embroidered motif.
I found this design in the book A French Fashion Doll’s Wardrobe. It’s one continuous line.
Based on the image in the Wish Booklet, this part of the drape should lay across the side front, but it doesn’t. I just can’t get it to stay there. I know I followed all the instructions and was very careful in the construction, but this drape just sits high on the bustled skirt underneath.
I also have issues with where the pleats on the front fall. It’s one of those things – the drawing just doesn’t match the reality. Is this a problem? No. Does it bother me? A little.
And also based on the drawing, this back portion should cover the bustle instead of whatever it’s doing here.
But overall I still quite like the drape and how it works with the skirt. Could I redo it – yes of course and I could make changes based on my experiences. Is it worth it – no, it probably isn’t. This is a dress for a doll, not a live person.
I used these lovely cloisonné buttons I have had forever that just so happen to be perfect for this dress!
So pretty!
I had to make a repair to Ruby’s boots the other day. I think the amount of handling & disturbance has been more than they should have experienced. I noticed that the threads literally disintegrated.
You can see how the threads just…disappeared. I literally gasped in shock when I noticed it. And dismay that I didn’t think to protect them better, but I have a solution there. More on that in a moment.
I quickly found some thread that matches the deep red color of the original stitching, and stitched. In most cases I was able to use the original holes.
While I am glad to have stitched the boots back together I’m not going to risk any more damage. I’ve wrapped her feet in soft cotton for the remainder of the project!
This long weekend in the USA was great for making progress on Ruby’s wardrobe. I finished her petticoat and cushion bustle, and also decided to make a corset cover. All turned out quite nicely. First up was the petticoat.
Ok this is what it is supposed to look like. The gathered back is created by adding adjustable tapes on the inside of the garment.
That’s one side of the back. Unfortunately after I stitched that side, I made the other side incorrectly and the tape was on the outside. It was the end of the day and I knew better so I set it aside for the next sewing day.
After fixing that, I realized a minor detail – I had sewn the bias strip all the way to the edge of the piece, but really should have stopped 1/4” from the edge for a seam allowance. Le sigh, I had to pull a couple stitches but that really was a minor error. Yes, I could blame the vague instructions but honestly, I know better.
The front was supposed to have a pleated trim but I chose to do a ruffle because I hate making small scale pleats. That’s just me.
You may notice that on the drawing above, the back gathering from the tapes is well above the ruffled trim, but in reality that’s only about an inch from the lower edge! I suppose the intent was to add the ruffles and pleats to the hem – an extension of the length. With the yoke and waistband the petticoat is long enough and it wouldn’t make sense to add on this length so I applied it on top of the skirt as I have seen on historical garments. I used a gathered lace for the back and I like the outcome.
I made the closure with a mother of pearl button.
How do you think that compares to the drawing? Pretty close I’d say.
After finishing the petticoat I made the cushion bustle. This item is basically a lightly padded rectangle, folded onto itself and secured on a waistband. The pattern is plain so I chose to add the lace on the edges – because really, the Victorian age was a really embellished era. Why not add lace to your bustle?
The bustle helps achieve the large “backside” shape that was so desirable in the 1880s. There were many styles available and this is one example.
After thinking forward to the beginnings of the dress, I realized the next item necessary would be a corset cover. Because the corset is a darker color and the blouse layer would be fine white, there is a chance the corset would show through. The Wish Booklet includes a pattern for what they call a petticoat bodice. I haven’t heard this exact term but I recognize the piece as a corset cover.
The actual pattern was too long so I shortened it. I rather like the embroidery and the pearl buttons.
So there you have it. The undergarments for Ruby are completed and I can begin thinking about her dress finally!
Check out my instagram where you can see a video of everything. @norkio
I’ve started working on Ruby’s next undergarment, which is a petticoat.
After upsizing the pattern a bit to fit her, I carefully read the instructions. The drawing is a smidge deceptive!
The pattern piece just looks like a typical skirt piece. But, the pleated front trim and ruffled back are added on top of the base piece. I thought I was going to be making a separate hem piece to add to the lower edge of the petticoat. Frankly I’m relieved as adding it to the base is a lot easier.
I’m using a lightweight linen for the petticoat, bias tape for the casings and 1/8” twill tape for the inner tapes. Once assembled, the inner tapes can be drawn up and tied to create a nice pouf on the derrière.
The tapes are sewn to the inside of the piece so the outside is nice and tidy. However, it’s the end of the day and I sewed one side correctly and the other incorrectly. Urg. I will pick it up again another day!
I’m coming to realize that the dolls I sew for are FAR better dressed than I have ever been or ever will be. You have seen the chemise and fussy drawers that Ruby is now enjoying. Lovely soft cotton voile with silken trims and lace. Ooh la la.
The next garment I have made for Ruby is really, if I don’t say so myself, amazing. Just because a lady is 130 odd years old does not mean she wants any old clothing, am I right? So, Ruby and I talked – it was a bit one sided if you must know – and she told me how she has always wanted a decadent silk brocade corset.
And how could I say no to that?? For my own reenacting adventures, I have a lovely coutil corset with fancy lace trim. I know how it makes ME feel, so yes, Ruby would like to feel fancy too. No doubt!
I looked into my silks and found “just the thing” for this project. It’s a gorgeous silk brocade in autumn colors. I particularly like the rust-colored flowers and green botanicals.
Caroline was kind enough to lend her corset to Ruby to try on, and it is a good fit. I pulled out the pattern I drafted for Caroline which was drawn from the book —- A French Fashion Doll’s Wardrobe by Louise Hedrick. When I made the corset for Caroline I followed the instructions but I had been a bit surprised the garment was only a single layer of fabric.
This time I decided to make it with a cotton lining, more similar to how IRL corsets are constructed. To complete this, I cut each piece in the silk brocade and also in white cotton. The two layers are stitched separately, then placed right sides together to stitch the center back seam. The piece was then turned right side out for the top stitching that creates some of the structure and also the boning channels.
I realized as I was creating this garment for Ruby that I made a slight error on Caroline’s. It doesn’t impact the actual item so I won’t change it.
The top stitching is done in a golden wheat colored silk thread, doubled. The back stitch adds an attractive detail and has the duel purpose of binding the two layers securely. It’s like the pieces are quilted together.
There are five bones in the corset – center front, one on each side of center back, and one each angled on the side front. If you decide to undertake this project I recommend angling the ends of the side front bones so they fit neatly into the channel.
The last couple steps are adding the grommets and binding the edges. I happened to have this silk ribbon that perfectly matches the thread I’ve been using. And I love that the brass grommets work perfectly with the fabric.
Et voila! Ruby looks lovely in her new, fancy corset!
I’ve finally dedicated some time to work on Ruby’s drawers and they were so fussy and fiddly! I decided to use the Susan Sirkis Wish Booklet WB 23 Fashions 1880-1885.
The Wish Booklets are wonderful with lots of patterns that are relatively easy to follow…if you understand garment construction and have some knowledge of period techniques. The original chemise I made was based on a different pattern because I wanted something closer to what is shown in the Bloomingdale’s Illustrated 1886.
The drawers however are a sweet design and just fine for Ruby.
Many of the reproduction doll patterns I have seen and used include some errors, omissions and sometimes just confusing instructions. I remind myself they are written by humans (fallible as we may be) and rely on my sewing experience to fill in any gaps. In these drawers for example, there is no instruction to hem them or to add the lace trim.
Should you wish to make these drawers, I suggest you make a rolled hem before starting, and then make your pin tucks, or adjust the placement of your pin tucks up a quarter inch so you have space to hem and add the lace at the end.
Also, there’s no mention of added the bows shown in the drawing but that could be put down to it just being a suggestion. I liked the look and added silk ribbon bows.
I also chose to use French seams since voile can fray just as badly as silk! Being such a fine fabric it is very delicate, but gives such a lovely result. Another step not really mentioned is the waistband. While the instructions do indicate the yoke should be set to a narrow waistband, there is no mention to add ease stitching since the yoke has bias edges. Again, not too difficult to figure out.
They fit Ruby nicely and I closed them with a hook and thread bar. I think a button would add unnecessary bulk.
Ruby is pleased to have drawers again!
I’m tickled that I can share with you the new body created for Ruby. I was very happy to save her original stockings and shoes!
I’m tempted to open her up and add some more stuffing to make her body more firm. The more I work with her the softer the cotton stuffing becomes. She has been filled with 100% organic cotton.
Her head was glued with Aileen’s tacky glue. I hope it holds for as long as the original glue did. For that matter I would be thrilled if her new body lasts as long as her original did!
I also created her first piece of clothing. It’s a sweet chemise of the softest 100% cotton voile. The lace is also 100% cotton from my favorite heirloom sewing site Farmhouse Fabrics. The button is a vintage mother of pearl with the 2-hole “eye” look.
I looked at the Bloomingdale’s Illustrated catalog for design inspiration. The placket front was very popular in 1886.
Next I will move on to some drawers and a petticoat. See you again soon!
Notes from the Melody Maker 